New Book Promises To Reveal The Secrets Of The Paraiba Gemstone

An important group of jewelry and gemstone professionals were on hand in two cities to celebrate the unveiling of a new book about the rare and valuable gemstone, paraiba tourmaline.

The book, “Paraiba: A Legacy of a Color,” was first unveiled June 28 in Paris at the Salon d’ete, Ritz Place Vendome, with guests that included Stanislas de Quercize, the former president and CEO of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, jewelry artists Emmanuel Tarpin and Lydia Courteille, and Moizes Ferreira de Lima, owner of Paraiba mines in Brazil, Mozambique and Nigeria.

This was followed be a dinner on July 1 at Scott’s Mayfair, where guests included Melanie Grant, jewelry author, journalist and executive director of the Responsible Jewellery Council, Josina von dem Bussche-Kessell, Fabergé creative director, and Tamara Moussaieff, of the famed London jewelry house, Moussaieff.

The picturesque coffee table book is written by Kevin Ferreira, a gemologist who specializes in paraiba tourmaline, and Katerina Perez, and internationally known jewelry influencer. It contains input from a veritable “who’s who” of people in the gem and jewelry world. It covers the history of its discovery, its appeal for collectors and high jewelry designers, and the discovery of new mines that allow the gem to continue to be collected and used for exceptional jewels.

While academics and collectors recognize its beauty and value of paraiba tourmaline, the rare and vibrant gem has little recognition among the greater public.

The gemstone gets its name from the Brazilian state of Paraiba, where it was first unearthed in the late 1980s. It’s distinctive for its color which ranges from an electric or neon blue (the most sought-after color) to emerald green and in various stages of bluish-green hues. The colors are caused by the interaction of copper and manganese in the tourmaline. There is no gem or mineral that better reflects the colors and sparkle of the ocean than high-quality paraiba. Even without having the benefit of thousands of years of history, its vibrant hues of this contemporary paraiba quickly made it the most high-profile precious gem discovery in decades.

Ferreira’s knowledge of paraiba comes from his family’s involvement in the mining of the gem in Brazil and Africa. He brings experience and expertise into this world by tracing the origins of paraiba in Brazil and later in Mozambique and Nigeria. He also talks about the price fluctuations over the years from the time it was at the height of demand when Brazil was the only source of the gem, to its price decline when alternative sources were discovered in Africa. While the original source of Brazilian Paraiba is all but gone, only revealing small fragments of the gemstone, the African mine discoveries mean that it will live on. Even with the new mines, paraiba tourmaline remains a rare gem with plenty of value and with diverse uses in jewelry.

Perez, arguably the most recognized jewelry influencer in the world, discusses paraiba’s role in jewelry design as both a central gemstone and to enhance overall jewelry design. Speaking with academics, designers and heads of luxury brands, Perez shows the versatility of Paraiba in high jewelry design through her personal experiences, the words of the experts and through many visual examples.

In a brief section, Laurent Massi, a gemologist, doctor of Physics, lecturer, and photomicrographer, discusses how paraiba tourmaline is valued based on its color, cut, clarity and weight; as well as a subset of stones known as “phenomenal,” based on their unique luminous characteristics.

De Quercize, a veteran luxury industry executive, writes the forward for the book, waxing poetically about the search for Paraiba and its natural beauty, and its use in exceptional jewels when placed in the hands of capable high jewelry designers.

“Paraiba: A Legacy of Color” is published by Watch Print and is currently available online through the publisher’s website.

To learn more about Paraiba follow @paraibapassion on Instagram.